About FREELAND!

I didn’t waste much time upon landing in Bangkok. Less than 12 hours after my 22 hour trip I made my way from my hotel to the FREELAND office to get right into the internship. I was able to spend half the day getting to know the organization and some of the staff so I wanted to share a bit of the same with you!

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Excerpt from website: 

The multi-billion dollar illegal trade in protected species is one of the most lucrative illicit markets in the world today. Combined with habitat loss, it is driving many species towards extinction. Unchecked nature crime not only ravages biodiversity, but the knock-on effects can unravel entire ecosystems. The loss of important watersheds and carbon sinks, for example, endangers human health and food security. In addition, human trafficking targets vulnerable people for labour and sexual exploitation, destroying lives and tearing families apart. FREELAND believes a compassionate world is a world free of slavery.

FREELAND helps reduce human and wildlife trafficking across Asia by providing direct training and technical assistance to police, customs and environmental agencies to combat poaching, illegal logging and human trafficking. FREELAND is helping governments form task forces, and we facilitate cross-border inter-agency co-operation and civil society action. FREELAND’s trainers are highly qualified, as they are former government enforcement officers.

FREELAND recognizes that poverty creates the conditions for both human and wildlife trafficking -- and poverty simply must be addressed. To this end, the organization helps vulnerable rural communities develop plant nurseries, fish and mushroom farms, renewable energy sources and reforestation projects. This makes a real difference in people’s lives while reducing the pressures on ecosystems.

FREELAND’s public awareness campaigns expose the roles that consumer demand and apathy play in wildlife and human trafficking. These campaigns also highlight the threats such crimes pose to natural ecosystems and our way of life. FREELAND’s campaigns have a direct message:

   Don’t buy protected animal and plant species, don’t ignore the exploitation of human beings and notify authorities if you witness these crimes

FREELAND’s public awareness team is staffed by creative and inspired people. Collaborations with international advertising firm JWT, the Discovery Channel, CNN and other media outlets bring messages to millions of people around the world, changing attitudes and encouraging political leaders to act.

FREELAND’s commitment to the region runs deep: While several international NGOs working here have headquarters outside the region, FREELAND is the only international environmental and human rights organization headquartered in Asia with multi-national staff.

FREELAND is committed doing even more to protect the rights, habitat and existence of all living beings in Southeast Asia and around the world. To succeed, FREELAND needs support more than ever.

Successes include:

•    Being chosen by the U.S. Agency for International Development (USAID) to lead an $8 million regional project to help Asia protect its unique biological diversity and fight against the illegal trafficking of wildlife.

•    Assisted by FREELAND, a multi-agency law enforcement team searched the houses of two suspects believed to be involved in a tiger-poaching ring, confiscating illegal boar teeth and weapons. The raid followed up on the June 26th arrest of two suspects charged with the killing of a female tiger and two cubs in Thailand’s Huai Kha Kheang wildlife sanctuary.
•    With support from FREELAND, Thailand's environmental police arrested a man who was providing protection and financial channels for what may be the country's largest tiger trafficking ring. "FREELAND and Thai Police stand together in sending a signal to the traffickers that Thailand is becoming a much more difficult place to do their business." said FREELAND executive director Steve Galster.
•    Acting on intelligence from FREELAND, Thai Police arrested a UAE citizen preparing to fly first class from Bangkok to Dubai with various rare and endangered animals in his suitcases.  Undercover officers from the Thai Nature Crime Police had been monitoring the suspect from his illegal purchase to the moment he stepped into Bangkok's Suvarnabuhmi Airport where he was observed receiving several suitcases from another suspect packed with the animals, all of which were all still alive. 
•    Acting on a tip-off by FREELAND Foundation, Royal Thai Police's special unit on human trafficking rescued victims of an international sex trafficking ring, arrested two traffickers, and are now hunting down other leaders of the operation.  Police raided a downtown Bangkok apartment that harbored up to 20 women after receiving reports from FREELAND and a UN team about Uzbek women wanting to flee their criminal controllers.

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Currently, FREELAND has funds to continue its field work, but there is a strong need for compliance oversight to ensure that wildlife monitoring and training is conducted according to established plans and procedures. Staff and rangers in the field are primarily Thai and despite the effective work that is done by field workers, communication gaps prevent much of the work from being reported and disseminated to a wider audience, specifically current and potential donors. In order for FREELAND to continue its important work and attract new donors, its successes must be measured and communicated effectively.

Identifying this need for an additional skilled worker, FREELAND foundation has created an internship position based at their headquarters in Bangkok for a minimum of six months, which is a position I have accepted and is currently underway. I am currently assisting field work to ensure compliance in various projects such as wildlife monitoring and training as well as serving to document activities and data for dissemination to donors. I am also assisting in general and skilled office work in Bangkok as the need arises.

I am proud and excited to be a part of such an action-oriented group and look forward to sharing with you the work that is being done to protect Thailand’s wildlife. 

Myself (left) with FREELAND staff

 Follow FREELAND on Facebook and be sure to visit their website!

Return to the Land of Tigers

Greetings from Thailand!

It has been a long time coming, but I am finally back in Asia. If you are reading this then you are likely already aware why I am here and likely were a part of the reason! As someone passionate about tigers and wanting to save them there really isn’t anywhere else you can be. Asia is home to the 3,200 wild tigers that remain and it is, ultimately, here that the species will be conserved or become extinct.

The situation is dire; the population has fallen to just 3% of what it was a century ago and now occupy 7% of their historic range. In the past decade alone, tigers lost 40% of their habitat. Three subspecies of tiger – Bali, Caspian and Javan – have already become extinct with a fourth, the South China tiger, likely extinct in the wild. The subspecies that remain – the Bengal, Indo-chinese, Malayan, Sumatran and Amur tigers – survive primarily in small, isolated pockets of habitat and face serious threats. Tigers everywhere are being killed for their body parts for use in Traditional Chinese Medicine, often destined for China. Prey species that tigers rely on to survive, including wild deer, bovids and pigs, are being poached as well. Moreover, even protected areas often are not safe from habitat destruction, fueled by agriculture, logging, and the needs of a skyrocketing Asian population that has tripled in the last 50 years.

However, there is still hope. There are a number of protected areas that, if truly protected, can sew the seeds of recovery by fostering breeding tigers and connecting them to other habitats at a landscape level. Moreover, through bolstering law enforcement capacity, we can not only bring wildlife traders to justice, but also prevent crimes from occurring at the field level. There are many organizations fighting for the tiger with dedicated staff. Thanks to your support, I now count myself among them.

In early January, I made the trip from Toronto, Canada to Bangkok, Thailand to conduct an internship with FREELAND Foundation, which fights for a world free of human and wildlife trafficking. This organization supports on-the-ground work to protect species like tigers and elephants and they were generous enough to offer me an internship to assist them in their efforts. I was fortunate to receive financial support from a number of fantastic individuals and because of your generosity, I want to share my adventures here in Thailand with you through an engaging blog. This is a more enriched, frequently updated alternative to a monthly eNewsletter I had proposed.

I hope you enjoy this blog which will document the internship via articles, conservation features, photos and videos. I strongly believe in being accountable for the support I have received and, as a result, I want to clearly communicate how I am using funds raised and maintain open lines of communication for feedback. I couldn’t have accepted this internship without you and for that I am thankful.

Let’s help save the tiger and other species together.

-Eric “Kuba” Ash

India Journal - Entry 15 - He Who Walks With Tigers

Not done yet...saving the best for last. I'm excited I finally get to upload it.

This is perhaps one of the most beautiful and profound photographs I've ever taken.

I was in a jeep in Corbett National Park, India and I spotted some pugmarks in the dirt as we were driving by. I had the driver stop and back up to get a closer look. They were from a female and were fairly recent. The driver got out of the jeep to examine them more closely.

Now...there has been a photo I've wanted to create for some time, but have not had a good opportunity; being in tiger country afforded me a couple chances to capture this image from my dreams, but park rules state that tourists aren't allow to exit the vehicles, which was crucial if I was to get the photo. I motioned to the driver that I wanted to get out of the jeep and he didn't seem to care. I jumped out of the jeep with camera in hand and my heart was racing (a combination of excitement and nervousness as there could have been a tiger close by). I ran up to the pugmark and did something that would leave the driver momentarily confused - I removed my shoe and my sock from my left foot. I judged the best place to make my move and then stepped firmly into the dirt beside the pugmark. I lifted my foot and beamed at the result...

There it was...our footprints in the dirt side-by-side, illuminated by a beam of morning sunlight which had found its way past the mountains and trees, sticks and leaves. It was an image that made my heart sing - I finally had an image that could speak to my relationship with tigers and the natural world.

Years ago, I chose my email "HeWhoWalksWithTigers" based on the idea that the fate of the tiger and of myself are inextricably linked, just as all things in the natural world are linked in deep, interdependent relationships. It has become a metaphor to describe the path in life I chose to take and in this image, it has taken physical form in a simple, but meaningful symbol...one I've wanted to depict for a long time. There is also a greater context I wanted to communicate. Without the tiger, in ancient cultures considered the guardian of the forest, the forest system begins to break down. The presence of tigers have been linked to the preservation of bamboo, fuel wood, timber, honey, medicine and other products that directly or indirectly help thousands of people earn a living. This is in addition to ecological services such as protection of topsoil and the retention of groundwater. If we cannot save the tiger, how can we save ourselves?

We breathe the same air and drink the same water - all the efforts we have made to distinguish ourselves from creatures like tigers have betrayed this fundamental truth: humans and wildlife all walk the same path, rely on the same natural world, on the same earth. Our fates are shared.

The photograph is not going to win any sort of awards for photography, but it is deeply meaningful to me. I was extremely lucky too...this was the last pugmark I saw in India. It is the best souvenir I could get. I don't think I'll ever be able to take a photo quite like this one.

I will probably never know the tigress that left this pugmark, but I hold hope she is still out there surviving. I may not be in Corbett right now, but I walk with her...her and all tigers, leaving pugmarks in the sands of time.

India Journal: Entry 14 - Farewell to Paradise

As the sun began to set on my adventures in India, I took the time to reflect on what I have seen. It was certainly a time of personal growth and wonder. However, I couldn’t help but think about whether or not the places I had visited or the tigers I had seen were going to remain for much longer. In particular, I thought a lot about a dream I had when I was first starting to pursue tiger conservation. It occurred a few years ago, and this dream has haunted me ever since (among others, but that’s another set of writings).

The dream began with me stepping out of a car in the parking lot of a large white building. What struck me first was that I was an older gentleman, perhaps in my 50s or 60s; my hair was gray and despite the nice looking brown jacket I was wearing, I had let myself go a little bit. It must have been a busy day at this white building because I had to park quite far away. After making my way into the building, I immediately knew what it was: it was a museum.

This museum was quite beautiful, with plenty of natural light shining in from its many windows. It had plenty of open space and had what looked like a column of floors extending several storeys and allowing visitors to overlook the museum via a central balcony. It was comfortably designed, clean, sharp and ultra-modern. As I toured the museum, I happened across something which would render unto me sadness unlike anything I’ve ever felt.

I came across a video screen with an interactive display...and a dead, stuffed tiger. The films that were being featured depicted older footage of tigers in the wild. They also showed footage of death and destruction: tigers were being shot, cut open, and their forests were being destroyed. Each of the clips that played had the same message at the end in haunting red text: the wild tiger was extinct. Other species seemed to be on the way out too and the display acted as a warning.

I lingered around the display for some time and watched as groups of schoolchildren walked by with casual interest. I remember holding back tears as I watched this new generation, now growing up in a world without the tiger.

I had failed. I was now a pathetic old man: alone, defeated, and bereft of purpose... I had experienced an overwhelming sense of emptiness and was living a life that no longer had meaning. I was left limping through the remaining days of my life, a ruined relic of a lost cause.

It was a dream that depicted a possible future and for has stuck with me. Occasionally my mind will wander and those terrible feelings come creeping back. I’ve wondered if that is to be my fate. The longest time, it was the only glimpse of a possible future I’ve ever had...that is, until I journeyed into the realm of the tiger.

My quest through the forests of India, seeing tigers and taking in the sights and smells, was an incredible experience I will remember for the rest of my life. By the end, I didn’t want to leave. However, before I left, I had another dream...a new dream.

This dream was far different. I wasn’t walking across fields of concrete or in the echoing halls of manmade structures, nor was I alone. I was fit and happy. I was in the forest, surrounded by those sights and smells I had fallen in love with. I was a watchful guardian. As a setting sun coloured the forests aflame and cast shadows among the trees, I walked towards a humble house to retire for the evening. I paused before entering upon hearing a wonderful sound: it was the sound of a tiger’s roars somewhere in forest, staking claim to its kingdom.

I had succeeded. The tiger retained its place in this world. I would spend the rest of my days with those I love, watching over the tiger’s kingdom...an eternal, emerald jewel that would serve as a living testament to those who dedicated their lives to protecting the most incredible of our natural heritage.

I no longer dwell on the painful prospects of that first dream. Rather, I have departed India with a new dream...one I will fight to achieve.

This is the beginning...

India Journal: Entry 13 - Indian Inukshuk

Sorry, but there is no big story associated with this photo.

It was my last day at Corbett tiger park in India and I decided to take a river stroll. I noticed there were plenty of smooth rocks of a wide range of sizes, which gave me an idea.

The Canadian Inuit, who reside in the far north have historically used stone structures called "inukshuks' as landmarks. Inukshukgallery.com states:

The Inuit make inuksuit in different forms for a variety of purposes: as navigation or directional aids, to mark a place of respect or memorial for a beloved person, or to indicate migration routes or places where fish can be found. Other similar stone structures were objects of veneration, signifying places of power or the abode of spirits. Although most inuksuit appear singly, sometimes they are arranged in sequences spanning great distances or are grouped to mark a specific place....

The traditional meaning of the inukshuk is "Someone was here" or "You are on the right path."

The inukshuk has since been adopted as part of a symbol of Canada and in particular, the multiculturalism that we are proud of. I decided to make my own landmark as a statement of my Canadian presence so I constructed a stone avatar by the riverbank and baptized it with the cool river's water, which originated somewhere in the distant Himalayas.

I beamed at my Indian inukshuk and eventually departed, leaving my stony doppelganger to watch over the land of tigers.

India Journal: Entry 12 - Sunset Safari

A cloud of dust erupts from behind a speeding jeep, whose occupants caught wind of a tiger in the area.

Those traveling to go on a tiger safari will note very quickly that it pays to keep your eyes and ears open. Tigers will leave pugmarks along the dusty road and when a tiger stirs in the forest, a cacophony of alarm calls shortly follows. These are the signs that will lead you to a tiger, though be prepared to take a spill if you aren’t paying attention – the mention of a nearby tiger will beget the roar of engines and your vehicle will take off like a shot whether or not you are ready.

These are some of the most exciting times on safari. You careen dangerously down bumpy forest roads, leaving trails of dust behind you while the forest air whips across your face. All the while, your heart pounds against your chest and adrenaline rushes through your veins. You hang on for dear life, hoping that sharp corner ahead doesn’t send you flying. A smile creases your lips... this is adventure.

India Journal: Entry 12 - Distant Worlds

During my travels in India, I came across an individual who said something which would later play a role in defining my reflections on the trip. I was at Ranthambore, sitting by a fire with other tourists and out of the conversations a man said, “India has the best and worst the world has to offer”. That statement resonated with me. If you ever find yourself traveling around seeing the natural places remaining in India, you will understand too.

In my experiences in the protected areas where tigers roam, I was in paradise. The sights, sounds and smells made me feel at home. Aside from human presence, everything about being in these places was incredible. Seeing a tiger was the peak of it all...the epitome of the raw wildness and sublime beauty of nature (or, in the words of Dante, “The art of God”). Indeed, I was immersed in a dreamscape where the energy of life itself surged forth in vivid color, light and fragrance unlike anything mankind could ever render. Time seemed to not even exist, but for the daily passing of the sun and the air seemed so pure that often I was lost simply in the act of breathing. This was Eden, but we had kicked ourselves out.

When traveling between protected areas into human settlements and cities, the places of my dreams became distant worlds. Vivid color gave way to pale grays obscured by dust and pollution, which stung the eyes and made it difficult to breathe. The sounds of the wild were silenced by roar of engines, car horns, blaring music, and people yelling. The timeless slow-motion of nature was overtaken by the hectic rapidity of city-life. Yet life here in these places, rather than surging forth, felt subdued, suppressed and corrupt, limping forth just trying to get by. For every 5-star hotel, posh restaurant, or hi-tech electronics shop amidst the crumbling streets, masses of poverty-stricken beggars were never far from view. It was a soul-crushing juxtaposition. The vast inequality, the desperate and pitiful struggles of seemingly endless numbers of families, the filth, the pollution, the despair and the apathy...it rendered a sadness which lingered in my heart like the hazy air that so often obscured the sun. My experience in India will always be tainted by this. This is not what life is supposed to be and I felt damned to be a part of it.

There are moments where we as individuals reflect on our lives and question if we are walking the right path. I had grown up largely within a “modern” suburban environment, cushioned from both the ills of poverty and the sublime beauty of raw nature. Somewhere in the time when I was discovering tigers and pursuing higher learning at university, I began to widen my perspective. It was only when I visited India that I could truly appreciate the divide I saw before me. When I could see the man-man reality of the city right next to the small pockets of India’s remaining forests, I began to wonder, “Is this the way we should live...the way we are meant to live? What are we heading towards?”

The Eden’s of the Earth are being swallowed up by the way we are living. We are not only laying waste to the last remaining bastions of life itself, but many of our own species are left behind in the process, struggling to survive while the rich thrive. We seek to separate ourselves completely from nature, yet it is nature upon which we depend. Where will this take us? Can we turn back? Can we bring the realms of man and nature, these distant worlds, back together and can we create a world where fortune favours all instead of the few?

If life in the wilds I visited was life in balance, then the places in between were the epitome of life out of balance.

In India, I saw the best and the worst this world has to offer.

India Journal: Entry 11 - Time Stands Still

A sambar quenches its thirst upon a pond in Ranthambore and looks upon a world of shimmering gold, gilded by a setting sun. The light of the day retreats into the west and the cool of night steals in silently. Will this be the sambar’s last sunset? Will it escape the maw, tooth and claw? Will the night be cast in crimson?

The beautiful precariousness of life, the lingering spectre of death...it is the law written upon the land, the whispers in the wind, the rune of scar and stripe.

Cherish life and those moments of sublime wonder...lest the sun that sets before you is the last you will see.

India Journal: Entry 10 - Tranquility

The sun rises upon Ranthambore, casting golden light upon an ancient fort. The deep blue of night is subdued, but lingers as mist rises from a lake as smooth as glass. Birds call in the trees to herald the coming of a new day and life stirs once more in these ancient lands...

...yet tranquility remains...ever present, ever pervasive. It is the timeless silence of the rising sun. It is the dew upon the leaf. It is the fragrance of the air. It is the bird floating in the wind. It is the tiger gliding through the trees.

It is life.

India Journal: Entry 9 - King Nothing

After visiting Bandhavgarh and not seeing a tiger, I was quite ready to disembark in search of greater opportunities at the famed tiger reserve, Ranthambore. I wasn’t too sure what to expect. Ranthambore is one of the most popular tiger tourist destinations in the entire world and my first thought was that it would be far too crowded to be an enjoyable experience. My experiences in the other parks quickly showed me just how disrespectful and unruly people can be when a tiger makes an appearance – it bothered me to no end, as I believe there is a code of conduct one should observe when visiting the home of wild animals and especially when viewing tigers. Naturally, I was a bit worried.

I arrived on Christmas Eve (December 24th) before noon. After a lengthy train-ride, I was eager to unpack, unwind and enjoy an afternoon to myself. However, I was surprised to here that an afternoon safari was going to be departing and I had the opportunity to join. The temptation was too much to resist and soon after arriving, I was boarding a large canter, which could accommodate more than 20 people.

The excitement of the safari was diminished somewhat by anxiety toward the others in the canter. Most of my safari’s were private affairs and all around me were chatty tourists who surely would not be as quiet as myself. However, after weeks of very little contact and conversation with English speakers, I began to relax and enjoy the experience. A couple of casual conversations made me feel I was among friends, which was a welcomed change.

After entering the park, I could understand why Ranthambore was so popular. Though we only toured a small part of the park, I was absolutely stunned with the natural beauty that was before me. As the evening approached, the other tourists were becoming anxious to see a tiger. Though some apparently didn’t get the memo that tiger’s don’t appear for people on a whim, I was becoming anxious as well. However, this was somewhat subdued knowing I was only on the first of many safari’s to come.

We traversed the winding roads and came upon a park staff member. It didn’t take long for me to realize, as he was talking to the driver, that he knew something. The staff member entered the canter and began to give the driver directions. It seemed that he knew there was a tiger in the area. The lines upon the man’s face told me he had a wealth of experience and knowing he was using it for our benefit made my excitement grow.

We turned a corner and sure enough, we came across another canter who had found two tigers. I immediately leaped to my feet, as did the others in the canter. Unfortunately, I was in the back of the canter and my view was obscured by trees and a legion of tourists vying for a view. I was able to hang myself out the side of the canter and snap a few blurry shots a tiger taking a drink. I was able to see the other tiger as well.

Tigers are solitary and normally do not associate with each other. These two tigers were male, which made it even more bizarre. However, these tigers were sub-adult siblings who seemed to be entering the twilight hours of their family. Their mother was nowhere to be seen and it is quite possible the process of the family break-up had already begun.

I was frustrated. Despite my best efforts, I couldn’t position myself to get a good view of the tigers. However, for reasons completely unknown to me, the driver came to the back of the canter, grabbed me by the arm, parted the crowd and placed me in the front of the canter with a fantastic view and part of the canter’s frame to stabilize my shots. I was completely taken off guard and the other tourists seemed to be as confused as I was, but unlike them, I wasn’t complaining. Simultaneously, one of the tigers had gotten up, moved closer and had laid down in a gap between the branches of a tree that had been obscuring everyone’s view.

As I discovered in my last encounter with a tiger, the effects of experiencing a wild tiger wasn’t diminishing, but actually increasing. The adrenaline was pumping, the world around me melted away yet again, my heart was hammering against my ribcage and this time I was even having trouble standing straight. Again...this wasn’t out of fear, but out of awe. The tiger had taken hold of me yet again.

The tiger which had decided to venture closer to us was maintaining a wary eye, but wasn’t bothered. As a result, I was able to take a wealth of photographs. It wasn’t until another canter arrived, with tourists screaming in excitement that the tiger decided to retreat. It was a rude arrival that left a bad taste everyone’s mouth and the new arrivals, in addition to being disappointed, found themselves the target of dozens of angry stares.

After the excitement died down, it was time to relax again. The sun began its evening decent and spirits were high among the other tourists. The fading sunlight painted the landscape with brilliant golden hues and people were eager to share their photos with each other. The night played host to campfires amidst the cold, conversation among strangers from all over the world and a sky filled with stars.

I began to think about the experiences of the day. Traveling to and from the park showed me just how unpleasant the situation is for the park. Ranthambore is famous for its tigers, but the long-term persistence of these animals is in question. The reserve is an ecological island amidst a human dominated landscape. Not far from the reserve is a major city and surrounding the park is farmland as far as the eye can see. Though this tiger tolerated our presence, the people outside the park are often not as friendly. He will eventually have to find his own territory and with very little land in the park to spare, he might venture outside the park into a nothing landscape and come into conflict with people.

This is a king that is quickly finding he no longer has a kingdom and it is a situation that many tigers now face.