The sun rises upon Ranthambore, casting golden light upon an ancient fort. The deep blue of night is subdued, but lingers as mist rises from a lake as smooth as glass. Birds call in the trees to herald the coming of a new day and life stirs once more in these ancient lands...
...yet tranquility remains...ever present, ever pervasive. It is the timeless silence of the rising sun. It is the dew upon the leaf. It is the fragrance of the air. It is the bird floating in the wind. It is the tiger gliding through the trees.
After visiting Bandhavgarh and not seeing a tiger, I was quite ready to disembark in search of greater opportunities at the famed tiger reserve, Ranthambore. I wasn’t too sure what to expect. Ranthambore is one of the most popular tiger tourist destinations in the entire world and my first thought was that it would be far too crowded to be an enjoyable experience. My experiences in the other parks quickly showed me just how disrespectful and unruly people can be when a tiger makes an appearance – it bothered me to no end, as I believe there is a code of conduct one should observe when visiting the home of wild animals and especially when viewing tigers. Naturally, I was a bit worried.
I arrived on Christmas Eve (December 24th) before noon. After a lengthy train-ride, I was eager to unpack, unwind and enjoy an afternoon to myself. However, I was surprised to here that an afternoon safari was going to be departing and I had the opportunity to join. The temptation was too much to resist and soon after arriving, I was boarding a large canter, which could accommodate more than 20 people.
The excitement of the safari was diminished somewhat by anxiety toward the others in the canter. Most of my safari’s were private affairs and all around me were chatty tourists who surely would not be as quiet as myself. However, after weeks of very little contact and conversation with English speakers, I began to relax and enjoy the experience. A couple of casual conversations made me feel I was among friends, which was a welcomed change.
After entering the park, I could understand why Ranthambore was so popular. Though we only toured a small part of the park, I was absolutely stunned with the natural beauty that was before me. As the evening approached, the other tourists were becoming anxious to see a tiger. Though some apparently didn’t get the memo that tiger’s don’t appear for people on a whim, I was becoming anxious as well. However, this was somewhat subdued knowing I was only on the first of many safari’s to come.
We traversed the winding roads and came upon a park staff member. It didn’t take long for me to realize, as he was talking to the driver, that he knew something. The staff member entered the canter and began to give the driver directions. It seemed that he knew there was a tiger in the area. The lines upon the man’s face told me he had a wealth of experience and knowing he was using it for our benefit made my excitement grow.
We turned a corner and sure enough, we came across another canter who had found two tigers. I immediately leaped to my feet, as did the others in the canter. Unfortunately, I was in the back of the canter and my view was obscured by trees and a legion of tourists vying for a view. I was able to hang myself out the side of the canter and snap a few blurry shots a tiger taking a drink. I was able to see the other tiger as well.
Tigers are solitary and normally do not associate with each other. These two tigers were male, which made it even more bizarre. However, these tigers were sub-adult siblings who seemed to be entering the twilight hours of their family. Their mother was nowhere to be seen and it is quite possible the process of the family break-up had already begun.
I was frustrated. Despite my best efforts, I couldn’t position myself to get a good view of the tigers. However, for reasons completely unknown to me, the driver came to the back of the canter, grabbed me by the arm, parted the crowd and placed me in the front of the canter with a fantastic view and part of the canter’s frame to stabilize my shots. I was completely taken off guard and the other tourists seemed to be as confused as I was, but unlike them, I wasn’t complaining. Simultaneously, one of the tigers had gotten up, moved closer and had laid down in a gap between the branches of a tree that had been obscuring everyone’s view.
As I discovered in my last encounter with a tiger, the effects of experiencing a wild tiger wasn’t diminishing, but actually increasing. The adrenaline was pumping, the world around me melted away yet again, my heart was hammering against my ribcage and this time I was even having trouble standing straight. Again...this wasn’t out of fear, but out of awe. The tiger had taken hold of me yet again.
The tiger which had decided to venture closer to us was maintaining a wary eye, but wasn’t bothered. As a result, I was able to take a wealth of photographs. It wasn’t until another canter arrived, with tourists screaming in excitement that the tiger decided to retreat. It was a rude arrival that left a bad taste everyone’s mouth and the new arrivals, in addition to being disappointed, found themselves the target of dozens of angry stares.
After the excitement died down, it was time to relax again. The sun began its evening decent and spirits were high among the other tourists. The fading sunlight painted the landscape with brilliant golden hues and people were eager to share their photos with each other. The night played host to campfires amidst the cold, conversation among strangers from all over the world and a sky filled with stars.
I began to think about the experiences of the day. Traveling to and from the park showed me just how unpleasant the situation is for the park. Ranthambore is famous for its tigers, but the long-term persistence of these animals is in question. The reserve is an ecological island amidst a human dominated landscape. Not far from the reserve is a major city and surrounding the park is farmland as far as the eye can see. Though this tiger tolerated our presence, the people outside the park are often not as friendly. He will eventually have to find his own territory and with very little land in the park to spare, he might venture outside the park into a nothing landscape and come into conflict with people.
This is a king that is quickly finding he no longer has a kingdom and it is a situation that many tigers now face.
I was relaxing outside near my room at the resort in the afternoon while this female stray was hanging out nearby. She had settled near a crowd of people who seemed to have tolerated her presence. While I was reading a book the dog was suddenly attacked by another female, presumably out of fear for pups she was raising nearby. This poor dog was cornered and attacked, bitten in the leg. She made her way over to me and when the attacker followed I stepped in its way, preventing it from getting to the other dog. The attacker attempted numerous times to circumvent me, but she eventually saw it as a lost cause. She slowly walked away, occasionally checking to see if I was still there while the dog that was attacked was whimpering behind me.
It was probably unwise to come between two dogs in this way, but I often let emotion get the better of me. I checked on the dog that had been attacked and she was shaking. She didn't appear to be bleeding, but was quite frightened. She had laid down and was watching to see if the other female was going to come back. I pulled up a chair next to her and helped to keep watch as well. I read a book next to her and occasionally whispered words of reassurance while she slept. We spent a few hours together.
When the sun had set, I made my way back to my room. The dog I was with was clearly worried the other was going to come back and attack her again. I wanted to show her that things were okay so I walked in 20 ft increments to allow the dog to follow slowly and overcome her apprehension. When I got to my room, I stayed with her to make sure the other female was not around. When she was confident enough, she left and I went inside.
I hope I made her feel safe and cared for, if only for a few hours.
This was just one of the many stray dogs that are out there. One of the most heartbreaking parts of visiting India was seeing the astonishing number of strays – I must have seen 5 in my journeys that had died on the road after being hit by cars. It’s really difficult to fathom at such a scale...with such rampant poverty, animals suffer the injustices of inequality as well. Dogs may be man’s best friend, but often I doubt how much that means to them.
I would recommend anyone who is thinking of getting a pet to adopt from an animal shelter that takes in the animals that don’t have homes. There are so many creatures out there that need a kind soul and a forever home. Even though you might only be able to help one, that decision would mean the world to a dog like this one. For those with pets, please have them spayed or neutered to prevent unnecessary breeding.
While traveling through Bandhavgarh, it was often the tiger that was on my mind, but occasionally other creatures would capture my attention. I spotted this lone jackal on the road, who seemed to be quite jittery. This was completely understandable of course. After all, the jackal is not a large creature and must keep a lookout for tigers, leopards and other predators. You don’t often hear about them either, as it is the more charismatic creatures that get all the attention. I would have liked to have seen more of this individual, though after being spotted, it made a hasty retreat into the jungle.
Unfortunately, Bandhavgarh didn't yield any tiger sightings. Though I try to keep up with tiger news in India, the fact that Bandhavgarh has seen a catastrophic crash in tiger numbers of late was only discovered after I had visited.
However, despite not seeing a tiger, I still enjoyed myself. The scenery of Bandhavgarh was breathtaking and my room was located right on the fringes of the park. As a result, I often heard alarm calls frighteningly close and on one occasion I heard a tiger roaring into the night less than 1km away. If that wasn't enough to make me slightly uncomfortable while reading outside my room at night, I was also informed that a man-eater was recently captured in the area 3 weeks previous to my arrival.
This is a photograph of a barasingha or `swamp deer` near a grassland pond at Kanha National Park, India. Out of all the photos I took during my trip to India, few come close to capturing the real beauty that I have witnessed while looking for tigers. This is one of those few photographs.
It is one of those moments where everything seems to be connected: the water, the air, the earth, the plants, the birds and the beasts. It is one of those moments where you feel unity amongst all things resonating to the pulse of existence. It is a moment that brings you closer to life, enlightenment and the truth of it all...
Kanha National Park in India is beautiful in its own regard, but I came to the park to see a tiger and during my stay there were plenty of close calls; one instance, we could hear a tiger moving through the jungle just off the road, but it never ventured into sight and we were left merely with dust and dreams. There were many fresh pugmarks to be tracked in the early morning, but tigers were as elusive as ever in this forest.
I recall during one journey, my park guide had mentioned the prospect of riding an elephant. Elephants can be used to go where jeeps cannot so I responded favorably to the idea. Thinking this was something to happen much later, I was surprised when I was soon speeding in a jeep towards an elephant in the forest, standing by the road. Before I knew it, I was climbing onto the elephant and setting forth on a shaky journey into the deep forest. The surprises kept on coming as I realized that we weren`t just looking for a tiger, rather, we were heading towards a tiger that had already been found.
The mahout (elephant rider) stopped at a small clearing near a dry river bed. I was greeted by the sight of 3 other elephants surrounding a circle of thick brush. It didn`t take me long to figure out what was in that brush; as the elephants began to clear the cover, a deep and paralyzing din arose from the shadows. A tiger had uttered a long, terrifying growl in protest, though the other mahouts and their cohorts seemed unstirred. It was the heralding of a creature with incredible power: the lord of this land.
We circled around the brush and descended into the dry riverbed. I turned and looked into the shadows and found myself in close proximity to the tiger. The tiger seemed calm, despite the commotion and casually took in the sights as it lay in the bushes. After seeing numerous tigers already, I would have thought that the experience of seeing a tiger would somehow diminish; however, it was quite the opposite. The quickening pulse, the adrenaline and the dream-like fog was more intense. I was closer to the wild tiger than I ever was before...very close.
As I took in the spectacular creature before me, I began to quietly utter words of astonishment and wonder, like a prayer to a living god. Shortly after doing this something had piqued the tiger`s attention and it suddenly shed its air of apathy. Its gaze slowly, but intensely rose from the ground and found my eyes. Though I have known deep stares from tigers in zoos, this was something completely different. The tiger had eyes that literally seemed to burn, like simmering embers left over from the creation of the universe...and they were staring into me. Before taking this photograph, I froze for a moment, paralyzed. What power...
I suddenly became conscious of just how exposed I was. Though the elephant I was riding on was indeed quite tall, tigers have been known to leap the distance. Moreover, in descending into the dry riverbed, we had become almost level with the tiger, which could have very easily made a run and leapt onto the elephant`s back with no effort. My legs seemed horrifyingly vulnerable, dangling in front of the tiger like meat hanging in a butcher shop.
My heart continued racing as the tiger continued to stare; time no longer existed. The tiger seemed to know it was the ruler of this place and stared into me with what seemed like pride, power and dignity. In the dark of the deep forest, it was a life burning bright and being so close, it had set my heart on fire once more. Then, as suddenly as it started, it was over; the tiger seemed satisfied and casually looked away before closing its eyes. The mahout then signalled our departure and I soon found myself making the trek out of the tiger`s forest.
I unsteadily descended from the elephant into an awaiting jeep and looked at my hands: they were shaking. Now...I pride myself in being an individual with a strong spirit and am often calm in intense circumstances. There are few things that will rattle me, but this experience showed me that no matter how much time I have spent face to face with tigers in a zoo, it could never prepare me to come face to face with the dominating power of a wild tiger. My first meeting with a tiger left me in a similar state. It wasn`t a product of fear – ultimately, I didn`t feel any misfortune would befall me – rather, it was something different that caused those chills. Perhaps it is because I know the tiger well enough to know what feats of power it is capable of, perhaps it is my respect for ancient belief which associated it with the divine, perhaps it is simply because the tiger is an animal I respect more than any other... in any case, that tiger's gaze had pierced the innermost realms of my soul...
After my experiences in Pench, it was off to Kanha National Park to the east. Kanha is home to a mosaic of forest and grassland habitats which allows it to sustain one of the highest densities of tigers in the world.
The park is extensive, spanning (940 km2) and one of the most beautiful places on earth. The forest shimmers an emerald green and in some places you would think you were in a tropical jungle.
I spent a lot of time in this park completely stunned by its beauty. I really could have stayed there forever...
The forest is lovely, dark and deep But I have promises to keep And miles to go before I sleep And miles to go before I sleep...
After my first encounter with the tiger cubs, I had retired to my room at a nearby resort at midday. I elected not to go on safari that afternoon and spent the rest of the day relaxing. Two days later, I would return to the park once more.
I embarked through the cool mist of the forest on another cool morning, my eyes and ears sharp to the sights and sounds of the forest. If a tiger moved, we would know. I remained vigilant, standing in the jeep and scanning the surroundings.
The jeep slowly traversed the meandering dirt roads of the forest for what seemed like an eternity and we emerged in a grassland where the rising sun was setting the fields aglow. Materializing out of the mist was a set of buildings. We had arrived at an elephant camp. The driver stopped and casually set forth on a bathroom break and afterwards started a conversation with one of the camp staff.
I started to get anxious. I looked back across the field into the forest. We certainly weren’t going to see any tigers at the rate events were unfolding. I made my point by staying in the jeep, hoping others would get the hint. We eventually creeped back into the dark forest, where morning light was penetrating through the trees.
We met other jeeps periodically and after drive-by chats, we found out that no one had seen a tiger yet. This increased my anxiety. The first tiger I saw had left its mark on me... I wanted more, like a drug-user in need of a fix.
We turned onto a path that seemed scarcely used and soon after we heard the silence broken by the trumpeted cough of a sambar warning call. There was a tiger out there...and it was on the move.
Everyone in the jeep switched into high gear and we raced down the path. The driver eventually came to a stop and another jeep pulled in right behind us. We stood still, staring off into space and focused our energies at listening...imagining where the tiger could be. The calls repeated once more, but they were closer...it was coming toward us.
We turned to face where we thought the tiger would be and fixed our eyes to the deep blue distance, hoping for a flash of orange and black. Someone had spotted something, which sent everyone’s eyes darting madly. A tiger was there, but obscured by a wall of forest. My heart was racing and my mouth was dry.
My eyes located a clearing through the trees and I was soon rewarded. Like some sort of ghostly apparition, a tiger had strode silently into view.
I was mesmerized once more, as if the very sight of this creature had cast a spell upon me. The world around me seemed to melt away...all sound seemed silenced save the drumming of my heart in my chest. It was like something out of a dream. After the tiger appeared, it seemed a glowing light floating through the mist. The creature dominated the forest with its very presence...yet, its magnificent form made not a sound. I remember the determined placement of paw after paw and it’s gaze held forward, and though I could see it making contact with the forest floor, it nonetheless seemed to glide. Like a river of flaming gold, it flowed through the trees and once more fell out of view.
I was awoken from my daze my the sound of tires spinning in the dirt. The driver, knowing where the tiger was headed, had turned around and was speeding through the forest. The bumpy ride was cause for a tightened grip on the jeeps handrails and while being jostled around, I began to wonder if what I saw really happened and regretted not getting a photograph. However, I didn’t linger in memory for too long...the tiger was still out there.
We pulled onto a road which seemed much more open. The trees seemed more widely spaced and the forest was buffered by plenty of grass. We eventually picked a spot and settled down, waiting for the tiger to make one more appearance. Sure enough, it emerged among the trees and it seemed to be using the road we were just driving as a pathway.
It retained its determined composure, a wild dignity and flawless form while silently walking 100 ft before us. It seemed unconcerned with us and took the time to leave scent signals on trees and on the road to let other tigers know it had passed.
Before entering the forest once more, it stopped for a few moments and took in its surroundings, bathed in mist. It sniffed the air, taking in the sweet fragrance of the forest that no words can properly define and then slowly faded into the trees.
I exhaled and took it all in as well.
Its moment’s like these that you live for: where everything seems to slow down, where the sublime beauty of life takes hold and you are left in awe. Perhaps people like myself are more susceptible, but I consider myself luckier for it. Life is so much grander.
When I awoke at 5am, it was still dark. The stars were still holding vigil over the pale blue landscape and the symphony of crickets remained undeterred by the cold.Neither was I. It was my first day in Pench National Park in India...my first day in tiger country. The prospect of seeing my first wild tiger was firmly established from the moment I opened my eyes. I thought about it as I got dressed and when I brushed my teeth. I thought about it when I packed my bag, zipped up my coat and made my way through the dark to the entrance of the resort. I thought about it as I watched the first rays of sunlight illuminate the forested horizon. Each exhaled breath lingered in the frigid air like affirmations hope taking ghostly form.
It was too early for breakfast and, despite my searching for coffee, there was none to be found. I didn’t mind too much: I was wide awake and ready to enter the realm of the tiger. The gravel and sand crackled under the tires of an oncoming jeep, which pulled up to the entrance. It was your typical safari vehicle: the front had an open top and the back had two rows of seats for passengers. However, I wouldn’t be using the seats too much during the trip – adrenaline and excitement wouldn’t permit it. Rather, the open top would allow me to stand and scan the surroundings for signs of wildlife, hopefully manifesting as tiger.
After a few moments, I climbed into the jeep. I looked at each seat and attempted to reason which would provide me the best opportunities for wildlife viewing. However, that wouldn’t matter asthere were no other guests that would join, leaving me free of competition.
The engine roared to life. It was time to go.
Under fading night, the driver, two guides and myself raced toward the park gate. Upon arrival, we were greeted bya queue of less than a dozen other cars waiting for the park authorities to allow entry. The driver left the vehicle to submit entry forms while we waited. Slowly, but surely, the pale blue of the landscape gave way to a palet of violets and reds while the trees came into view through the fog. We were soon given the all-clear.
Our jeep continued along the dirt road leading into the inner reaches of the park while the wind numbed my fingers and face. I had to choose between keeping my hands warm and having my camera at the ready. Naturally, I chose the latter – it is where being a Canadian comes in handy. One thing that I noticed almost immediately was the air, which was cool, crisp and clean, with the soft, sweet, calming fragrance of the forest. It was a far cry from the stinging pollution of Bangkok and Nagpur and was quite wonderful to experience. The landscape was eerie, with trees and plants I had never seen before and peculiar rock formations jutting out from the earth, bathed in early morning mist. It was another world.
At 6:30am, I entered Pench National Park. It was the first time I had entered a forest where tigers prowled. I had been waiting for such an opportunity for 4 years and it was finally happening. However, as we sped past the trees, penetrating deeper into the forest, I found myself slightly despondent. I began to realize that I was setting myself up for disappointment. After all, some people spend days in tiger country and never even catch a glimpse of a tiger. I was being foolish to expect to see a tiger on my first trip. It was a humbling dose of reality, but one that I accepted with relative ease. It is a privilege to be able to see a wild tiger and Pench is rich in other wildlife to admire.
The other wildlife didn’t take long to appear. The jeep slowed at certain points to inspect the odd spotted deer, peacock and wild boar and I found myself still thinking about tigers, but happy to experience the creatures I have come to know only though modern media. It was okay that I may not see a tiger...I was lucky enough.
Fate, it would seem, would disagree.
I noticed the driver slowing and his demeanor changed. He turned and whispered a word that would send my heart racing: “Tiger!”
My eyes darted around where the driver had pointed 30 meters into the forest and soon a figure rose up out of the grass. At 7am on December 10th, 2008, after 4 years of waiting, months of planning and just 30 minutes after entering the park, I saw my first wild tiger.
It truly was a blur. My heart was persistently pounding against my rib cage and my eyes remained transfixed upon the tiger. I had my mouth gaping open in awe for a few seconds with a faint, barely intelligible whisper of “Oh my god”. It was far, but I just make out its stripped form in the grass. Auspiciously, it was a cub...a few months old. That would mean its mother and possible siblings would be nearby. Another cub emerged and the two danced in and out of view while playing. Eventually, it was revealed that their mother had made a kill, possibly a sambar. There was plenty for the family to munch on and the mother stayed hidden in the grass, likely sleeping. While the scene unfolded, I fumbled with my camera. Although the photos I took were less than ideal, given the low light, the camera acted as a pair of binoculars, allowing me to get a good glimpse when the tigers came into view. Eventually, the mother would materialize, though only for a few moments.
I am not sure how long we had stayed there, but eventually, the excitement became subdued. The cubs likely took cue from their mother and began napping. Ultimately, the tigers decided to stay hidden and the cars that had joined the frantic fray disappeared one by one. The driver signalled his intentions to continue with the trek. I cannot remember how I responded, but it was likely a half-hearted grunt. Part of me wanted to stay until there was more movement, but another was tempted by the prospect of further adventure. The kill would keep them in the same spot so I quickly got over the disappointment when the wheels began to turn once more.
We toured the park and saw more deer and a few unruly languor monkeys. A short break was taken at the park’s resevior, providing an incredible view. As the sun continued its ascension and the jeep meandered around the bends of the dirt road, I my mind remained with the tigers. I was humbled by the experience and amazed at just how quickly everything had happened. I was lucky...very lucky. It was then that I had felt an immense amount of relief. I could truly let go of worrying about whether I would see a tiger and I could simply enjoy what the experience had to offer. In my list of “Things to Do Before I Die”, I could cross off “seeing a wild tiger” at the age of 22.
As we left the park before noon, I felt a familiar sensation. It was the same feeling that I felt when leaving the zoo after meeting a tiger for the first time in 2004. It was the same feeling that brought me back to that zoo in subsequent days and weeks. It was the blissful intoxication of happy memories and of being with tigers. I didn’t want to leave...I wanted to stay. It felt like home and felt right. The scent, sights and sounds, rather than seeming foreign, seemed familiar and friendly. Perhaps someday, after securing a future for wild tigers, I’ll be able to find a home in tiger country and live out the rest of my days in the company of one of the greatest animals life has ever known. Should I be so lucky? Who knows? If the day had taught me anything it is to not get absorbed in what may or may not, but to make the best of our experiences.
I left the park with a smile on my face. I had experienced something incredible, butthis was only the first day. There were many more adventures to be had.
Ever since I started getting interested in tigers just over 4 years ago, I've wanted to go to India to see a wild tiger. Now...after over 4 years of waiting, hoping, praying, dreaming, begging, searching, and struggling I've taken my first steps on the subcontinent. 4 years ago I never would have imagined I would be here; traveling and having adventures was always something for other people...not me. Not anymore. Today, I start my month-long adventure across India in search of the tiger. What awaits me, I have no idea, but I'm giving myself completely to the experience and the opportunity.
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